Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023 Aug 11. doi: 10.1111/ics.12890. Online ahead of print.
ABSTRACT
OBJETIVE: Sisal is a common stiff fiber produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of commercial production of all fibers of this type. The fibers are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of its weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenols-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction (UAE), characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations.
METHODS: Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) equipment associated with classical molecular networking (MN) and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations and preliminary and accelerated stability was evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not the extract that were stable after 90 days, had their in vivo Sun Protection Factor, UVA Protection Factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined.
RESULTS: Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of EAG/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelength, and absorption of visible and blue light.
CONCLUSION: Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.
PMID:37565318 | DOI:10.1111/ics.12890
